April 2019 - Textile Study365

Archive for April 2019

Job circular at Fakir Fashion Ltd As A Sr.Officer/Officer (Supply Chain Management)

April 30, 2019 কোন মন্তব্য নেই news

Sr.Officer/Officer (Supply Chain Management)

Vacancy: 04

Job Responsibilities

Properly maintain Sample & Trims related work.
Must have the knowledge about Stitch area / Production are
Knowledge about marketing & merchandising must require.
Must have knowledge on knit and knit Fabrics.
Fair knowledge on production process in garments and textile division.
Any other assignment given by the management time to time.

Employment Status: Full-time

Educational Requirements

B.Sc in Textile Engineering/ MBA (SCM)
Preferred Professional Certification: PGD in SCM will give preference

Experience Requirements: 2 to 6 year(s)

Additional Requirements

Age 25 to 35 years
Only males are allowed to apply
Excellent interpersonal, written & oral communication skills.
Must have knowledge in MS Office.

Job Location: Narayanganj

Salary: Negotiable

Compensation & Other Benefits

Mobile bill, Medical allowance, Insurance
Lunch Facilities: Partially Subsidize
Salary Review: Yearly
Festival Bonus: 2

Send your CV to hr@fakirfashion.com

Application Deadline : May 9, 2019

Determine the right needle for a sewing thread

April 16, 2019 কোন মন্তব্য নেই Sewing

Here’s a quick way to determine if the thread and the sewing machine needle are compatible:

Take half a metre of the thread being used on the machine and thread it through the eye of a loose needle Hold the thread vertically with the needle at the top

If the needle is too big, it will drop to the bottom of the thread
If the needle is too small, it will stick at the top of the thread
If the needle is the right size, it will slowly spiral to the bottom of the thread

However, a larger-than-normal needle may have to be used to penetrate thicker fabric, or stitch over the top of pronounced or bulky seams.

Common problem & solution:

Sewing machine needles can break during sewing and some of the common reasons for breakage are mentioned below, along with the possible solutions:

Needle check list:

Inserting a New Needle

· Always ensure the needle is the correct needle system for the sewing machine

· Make sure the needle size / eye fits the thread size being used

· Make sure the needle is pushed all the way into the needle holder

· Ensure that the angle of the needle is correct

· After inserting a needle in the machine turn the machine hand wheel manually to make sure the needle isn't contacting any parts

Checking a needle that is already in a machine:

· Is the needle inserted correctly?

· Is the needle contacting any machine parts?

· Is the needle bent?

· Is the eye rough or blocked with melted fibre?

· Is the point damaged?

· When in doubt change the needle!

Importent Terms & Definition Which Are Essential For Dyeing?

April 16, 2019 কোন মন্তব্য নেই dyeing

Today I will present some 'terms and definitions' which are essential for dyeing.

AATCC : American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists.

Alginate : A thickener used in textile printing for the paste containing dye.

Affinity : Attraction between the dye and fibres.

Anhydrous : A substance which contains no water or without water.

Antichlor : A chemical used to neutralize chlorine bleach.

Anti foaming agent : An agent used to protect the dye solution from forming foam.

anti-migrant : An additive used to prevent undesired movement or spread the wet dye on fabric.

Binder : A material like gum or glue nearly colorless, that is used to attach a pigment to fabric.

Carbonizing : Treatment of wool with acid and heat to remove vegetable, burrs, other materials.

cloud point : The temperature at and above which a water soluble component will precipitate from solution.

crocking : Transfer of color from dyed or pigmented fabric onto other white fast fabric by rubbing.

Defibrillation : Process to remove fibrils from the surface of a fabric.

Diluent : Deluent or dilutant is a solid or liquid chemical used to carry or dilute anything.

Electrolyte : A substance that makes an electrically conductive solution when it is dissolved in water.

Etchant : In textile terms, a chemical that is used to break down fibres so that they can be removed for purposes of patterning.

Exhaustion : The transfer of dye from dye bath to fibre.

Fastness : The resistance of a textile material to specific chemical agencies.

Fixation : Build up the “final” bond between the dye and fibre

hydration number : A value indicating how many water molecules are associated with each molecule of some other compound in a crystal of that compound.

Hygroscopic : Having a tendency to absorb water or moisture from air.

Indigo : A natural or synthetic Vat dye derived from the plant Indigofera tinctoria.

leveling agent : An ionic, non-ionic surfactant used to promote level dyeing.

Mercerization : treatment of cotton yarn or fabric with a strong solution of NaOH to increase its strength.

Mordant : A chemical that helps the binding of dye or dyestuff to the fibers for both fiber and dye.

Owf : On weight of fibre, normally expressed in percentage.

Omf : On mass of fibre

Padding : A dyeing method with very low liquor to good ratio, where typically only enough strong dye solution is used to saturate the fabric

Pigment dyeing : Coloring fabric with ground pigments mixed with a binder rather than a true dye.

Soaping or soaping off : A process of washing the dyed fabric with hot water with surfactants or cleaning agents, soap, detergent to remove the fixed dye.

Softener (fabric softener) : A chemical or chemical mixture like lubricant stands for to give fabric a soft hand.

Softener (water softener) : Chemicals used to water to prevent hardness ions from interfering with other solutes.

Stripping : The process to remove uneven dye from fabric before redyeing it.

Stock solution: A solution of known strength, made up with the intent of dilution or mixing before final use. Stocked will be discussed future.

Substantive(ity) : The rate of dye to transfer from solute to solution.

Subtractive : With reference to color, removal of colors from light reflected from a surface.

Surfactant : Surface active agent.

Syntan : Synthetic tanning agent.

Wetting agent: An agent helps to increase the uptake of the dye by the fibre or to penetrate solution by wetting it.

W/w : Abbreviation of weight/weight.

W/v : Abbreviation for weight/volume.

Flow process chart for Mercerization

April 16, 2019 কোন মন্তব্য নেই dyeing fabric

Mercerizing is done before dyeing. Mercerized fabric is most sophisticated than un-mercerized fabric. This process also depends on the buyer requirement.

Mercerizing is done after bleaching operation. Bleaching is enough for prepared the fabric dyeing. But mercerization is done for adding some advantage to the fabric luster and strength.

Mercerizing makes fabric shinier and more colorful, and it provides the fabric stable shrinkage and fine. It is done for the sophisticated fabric.

Flow process chart for Mercerization.

Nasrin Sultana Tumpa.

Opex and Sinha Group.

Sr. Production Officer

B. Sc. In Textile Engineering

Bangladesh University of Business and Technology (BUBT)

Merchandising activities on goods delivery to buyers destination

April 16, 2019 কোন মন্তব্য নেই merchandising

Booking to forwarder

After making final inspection merchandiser received packing list from packing section which contain the list of carton, how many pieces garments in the carton, weight of the carton, number of pieces of garment to be shipped etc. Refer to this information merchandiser make booking to sea or air forwarder.

Export Documentation

The documents which to be submitted by a C&F agent for export: An exporter should have to submit the following documents to the customs authority of a station:

1. Shipping bill of entry.

2. Export L/C.

3. Packing List.

4. Commercial Invoice.

5. UD/UP.

6. VBF-9A. From to be supplied by the C&F agent.

7. Export Permission form (EXP).

Bill of Landing (B/L)

It is document issued by an eerier (railroad, steamship, or trucking Company) which serves as a receipt for the goods to be delivered to a designed person or to his order.

B/L describes the conditions under which the goods are accepted by the career and details

The quantity of the goods.
Name of vessel
Identified marks and numbers
Destination

Invoice:

Below point are including in the invoice:

Name and address of the buyers and the seller.
The Date and term of the sale.
A description of the goods,
The price of the goods and
The mode of transportation.

Payment release

After prepared invoice, bill of landing and other required documentation we send it to buyers nominated bank for payment release

This is all about the job of Merchandisers where I have worked out for three months. I have worked with the team of Bershka. So, here a brief introduction of Bershka is described with the management body of BEXIMCO related with it.

Garments Dyeing & Machine Specification

April 11, 2019 কোন মন্তব্য নেই dyeing Dyeing machine

Textile coloration is combination of same series processes such as scouring, bleaching, dyeing & after treatment which can be carried out at different stages of fiber processing in different forms like staple, yarn, fabric (rope or open-width, piece & garments) Dyeing of staple forms(loose fiber) is better for achieving better colorfastness, maximum penetration and uniform migration of dues over dyeing. Piece (batch) dyeing is carried out open width or rope form in depending on machine type & end-dyes. Usually these materials are dyed in exhaust dyeing method in a single dyeing machine. But lightweight woven fabrics & garments are also possible to dye with same principle in different form of dyeing machine such as jet dyeing machine. During garment dye process, some dyeing parameter should be adjusted according to form of products-righty weaved and heavy garments need the dyes with better migration properties, higher dyeing temperature, lower liquor ration & careful circulation of goods.

Usually, textile coloration is carried out impart attracting of textiles & pretreatment is first stage of textile coloration process, plats very role on coloring on textiles. Generally loose fiber, yarn, knit fabric, garment & very lightweight synthetic woven fabric are dyed batch wise in single machine. So the batch preparation is the early step of pretreatment in coloration process.

GARMENTS DYEING

This method is the best process of the dyeing of goods. However, the penetration of the dye solution may not be completely passed to the fibers such as between the seams, buttons, zippers etc. Normally, it is used for lingerie, socks, sweater dyeing etc.

In woven fabric processing generally various types of dying process is used. Those are:

i. Pad Dry Steam (PDS)

ii. Pad Dry Cure (PDC)

iii. Cold Pad Steam (CPS)

Machine required for those process:

i. Cold pad batch

ii. Thermosol

iii. Pad steam

Cold pad batch: It is the simple & easiest way of woven fabric dyeing. In this process only dark shade can be produced successfully & economically. But limitation is medium or light shade is difficult to match. It takes a long time because after dyeing it required a rotation of 8 to 12 hours.

Thermosol: It is a dyeing machine but it cannot produce the color as finally required or permanent. But in PDS process it can be provide finished product. By this machine only color is migrated from liquor to fabric. The it is dried on pre dryer & followed by hot air flow drying in thermosol unit. After this process color is developed in pad steam by chemical padding.

Pad stream: Thermosol run fabric must pass through pad steam for the development of color when CPS process is carried out. Here chemical padding is done through which color is fixed on the fabric. CPB run fabric does not require pad steam process. Here based on requirement additional dye can also added.

Garments Dyeing Machine Specification:

No. of machine: 01: Belly Machine

Brand Name: Nagai Shina

Origin: China Capacity: 250 kg

Model No: NS-2260

RPM: 28

Temperature- 100° c

No. of machine: 02: Front Loading Machine/Computer Machine.

Brand Name: DANIS Origin: Turkey

Capacity: 450 kg

Model No: MKM-525

RPM: 30(Fixed)

No. of machine: 03: Hydro Machine

Brand Name: DANIS Origin: Turkey

Capacity: 250 kg

Model No: D-2233

RPM: 800N-1000N

No. of machine: 04: Dryer Machine (Steam Dryer)

Brand Name: DANIS Origin: Turkey

Capacity: 180 kg

Model No: D-2218

RPM: 30

No. of machine: 05: Dryer Machine (Gas Dryer)

Brand Name: DANIS Origin: Turkey

Capacity: 180 kg

Model No: D-2218

RPM: 30

SEWING MACHINE which are used in Garments Industries # 01

April 11, 2019 কোন মন্তব্য নেই Sewing Sewing machine

Sewing is a creative and interesting skill. The knowledge of sewing give a confident feeling when it is applied to the construction of garments. The earlier method of sewing by hand is not applicable for all stages of garment making. Therefore, considerable emphasis is given to machine sewing. There are several machines in the market today, each with its own desirable features and advantages. Sewing machines range from most basic having only simple lock stitch to the electronic machines that use advanced computer technology having various functions for

Example : piping, binding, ruffling, pleating, darning, hemming and even making buttonholes and attaching fasteners. A good sewing machine is required to obtain quality products. One has to be familiar with the characteristics of different types of machines for selecting appropriate machine, depending upon the ability and requirements of the person.

1.1 TYPES OF SEWING MACHINES:

Sewing machines are now available in various models such as domestic model, tailor model, industrial model, portable and cabinet models. They may be operated by hand, treadle or electric motor.

Hand – Operated Sewing Machine:

This is the simplest form of sewing machine which is operated by hand. A detachable handle provided to the flywheel is used to operate the machine. This machine is generally suitable for domestic purpose because it does not help in speeding up the work.

Treadle Sewing Machine:

This machine is exactly like the hand sewing machine but it is operated by foot using an additional stand. In this type the balance wheel is operated by a belt with the help of lower stand, which is driven by feet. This machine operates faster than that of the hand-operated machine. This machine is suitable where there is no power supply. When handling this machine both the hands are free to handle the fabric, speeding up the work. Even some of the heavy-duty machines are operated by this method.

Electric Sewing Machine:

This is the fastest sewing machine. One needs practice to handle it. In an electric machine the balance wheel comes to motion by a belt, which is attached to an electric motor.

1.2 PARTS OF A SEWING MACHINE AND THEIR FUNCTIONS:

The basic structure of sewing machine is the same whether it is hand-operated sewing, treadle sewing machine or electric sewing machine. The basic parts of a sewing are listed below and seen in Fig.1

Fig. 1 Parts of a Sewing Machine

1. Spool pin: It is fitted on top of the arm to hold the reel.

2. Thread guide: It holds the thread in position from the spool to the needle.

3. Tension disc: The two concave discs put together with the convex sides facing each other. The thread passes between the two. The tension of the thread is adjusted by a spring and nut which increases or decreases pressure

4. Take up lever: It is a lever fitted to the body of the arm. Its up and down motion feeds the thread to the needle and tightens the loop formed by the shuttle.

5. Needle bar: This is a steel rod to hold the needle at one end with the help of a clamp. Its main function is to give motion to the needle.

6. Bobbin case: This moves into position to catch the top thread and form the stitch as the needle is lowered into the bobbin chamber.

7. Presser foot: It is fixed to the presser bar to hold the cloth firmly in position when lowered.

8. Presser foot lifter: A lever attached to the presser bar for raising and lowering the presser foot.

9. Stitch regulator: This controls the length of the stitch.

10. Bobbin winder: A simple mechanism used for winding threadon the bobbin.

11. Fly Wheel: When this is made to revolve, it works the mechanism of the motion

12. Clutch or Thumb Screw: This is in the center of the fly wheel and it engages and disengages the stitching mechanism.

13. Slide Plate: A rectangular plate, which facilitates the removal of the bobbin case without lifting the machine.

14. Needle Plate or Throat Plate: A semi-circular disc with a hole to allow the needle to pass through it.

15. Feed dog: This consists of a set of teeth fitted below the needle plate. It helps to move the cloth forward while sewing.

16. Face plate: A cover which on removal gives access to the oiling points on the needle bar, presser bar and take-up lever.

17. Spool pin for bobbin winding: Spool of thread is placed on this at the time of bobbin winding.

Reference :

Book Name : GARMENT MAKING

Editor

Miss. P. M. Geetha

M. Sc., (Textiles & Clothing)

Head of the Department of Garment Technology

Kamala Nehru Polytechnic for Women, Hyderabad

FABRIC PREPARATION PROCESSES : YARN PREPARATION EQUIPMENT

April 11, 2019 কোন মন্তব্য নেই fabric yarn

Various types of equipment can be used for preparing fabric. The ultimate goal of any preparation process is to produce fabric that is clean and rid of all impurities that interfere with dyeing and finishing. The preparation steps can be carried out as either batch or continuous processes. The fabric may be transported as a rope or as an open sheet through the equipment. The choice is often predicated on the dyehouse itself. The distinguishing feature of batch equipment is that all of the fabric is simultaneously submerged in the liquor. The fabric is agitated by moving it through the liquor. In continuous processes, the fabric passes non-stop through compartments and/or stages so that the fabric is incrementally subjected to the action of the chemicals. The equipment used for dyeing fabrics is also suitable for preparing fabric. In this section, the equipment used to perform fabric preparation will be described.

I. YARN PREPARATION EQUIPMENT

Slashing is the process where Size is applied to warp yarns for weaving. The purpose of size is to protect the yarn from the abrasive action of the loom. The process is carried out on a Slasher and the application procedure is called Sizing or Slashing. While technically this process is not considered as a step in preparing fabric, the materials used in this operation, to a large measure, account for the bulk

of what must be removed. Because the desizing step is highly dependant on what size was used, it is deemed instructive to discuss the slashing process as well as discuss the nature of the sizing materials.

Figure 1 shows a schematic diagram of a slasher. In slashing, section beams are combined to create a loom beam and at the same time apply the appropriate size to the warp yarns. The section marked (1) is the let-off station where one or more section beams are combined and fed through the rest of the range. The warp yarns are let-off as a flat sheet and then pass through a size applicator (2) consisting of a trough containing the size formulation and squeeze rolls. The yarns pass over heated cans (3) to dry. Located at the exit end of the slasher is an arrangement of bust bars which separate each warp end from its neighbor. The individual warp ends passthrough a reed which guides the yarn onto the take-up beam. Associated with the slasher is a cooking station, where the sizing material (starch or polyvinyl alcohol) is dissolved and stored. The solution is metered to the applicator as needed to

replenish what has been taken up by the warp sheet. The chemical nature of the size will be discussed in a later section along with the conditions needed to effectively remove the size.