How we calculate the Zipper Length?

The rules of zipper measurement is very simple but some time it becomes a matter of big trouble for us. Actually it depends on the fabric & zipper properties. So, at first we must need an idea about the shrinkage of body fabric & zipper tape. Some zipper measurements are not very complicated such as pocket, leg opening etc. Here, we only discuss about the front long zipper of sweat shirt or Jacket or as like that. 

 A) If the garments is hooded sweat shirt and the zipper goes up to front neck drop from bottom then the rules will as under - 

 Say, 

 Body length (From HPS) - 73 cm 

Front Neck drop (CB) - 8 cm 

Back Neck drop - 2 cm 

 (Use the below rule if the body length measure from HPS)  

Rules : Body length - (Front neck drop + Back neck drop) - 2% to 3% 

 = ( 73 - (8 + 2)) -2% 

= ( 73 - 10 ) - 2% 

= 63 - 2% 

= 61.5 cm 

OR 

 Body length (From CB) - 71 cm 

Front Neck drop(CB) - 8 cm 

 (Use the below rule if the body length measure from CB)  

Rules : (Body length - Front neck drop ) - 2% to 3% 

 = ( 71 - 8 ) -2% 

= ( 71 - 8 ) - 2% 

= 63 - 2% 

= 61.5 cm 

 B) If the garments is high neck and the zipper goes up to to of high neck drop from bottom then the rules will as under - 

 Say, 

 Body length (From CB) - 65 cm 

Front Neck drop - 6 cm 

Height of high neck - 6 cm 

 Rules : (Body length - Front neck drop) - 2% to 3% + Height of high neck 

  = ( 65 - 6) -2% + 6 

= ( 59 ) - 2% + 6 

= 57.82 + 6 

= 63.82 cm = 64 cm 

 Moreover, the rules is not always remain fixed, its may vary depends on practical situations. 

 However, I always advise that you must confirm the zipper measurement with your cutting master & production manager before place an order. 

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Different types of Label which are used in garment industry?

Garments Labels:

Garments labels are sewn or printed in garments and contain, country of origin, manufacturer identification number, care instruction, and voluntary information identifying size and brand. Garments labels should be affixed and legible for the useful life of the apparel item. Garment labels are selected based on location of label (interior or exterior application); type and design of the garments; contact with the wearer’s skin; intricacy or simplicity of the label content (logo, graphic art, word, and so on); garment fabric, brand, quality, and price point; and information to be disclosed.

Label types:

Garments labels are created by manufacturers from both mature and synthetic fibers and can be woven or printed. Woven labels are more durable and maintain their appearance and legibility longer than printed labels after repeated laundering or dry-cleaning. Materials used for sew- in labels include acetate, cotton, bamboo, polyester, leather, suede, PVC, silicon, or rubber.

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The basic requirements of good quality sewing thread?

Good tensile strength

Good tensile strength holds the stitched seam securely during wash and wear.

Smooth surface and absence of faults

Smooth surface and absence of faults ensures less friction between the needle and the material during high-speed sewing. The thread must be well lubricated to increase its sew ability and resistance to abrasion.

Uniform thickness / diameter

Uniform thickness / diameter results in an even sewing thread, which moves smoothly and quickly through the needle eye and the fabric. It also affects the thread’s tensile strength, resistance to abrasion and its twist construction. An uneven thread may twist into short knots and jam at the eye of the needle.

Good elasticity

Good elasticity enables thread to recover its original length immediately after the tension has been released. The elasticity of sewing thread affects the strength and the finished quality of a stitched seam.

Good colour fastness

Good color fastness provides immunity to the different agents the thread is exposed to during manufacture and washing. The thread must hence be uniformly dyed.

Low shrinkage

Low shrinkage of the thread being used on the fabric material with higher shrinkage reduces the chances of seam puckering.

Good resistance-to chemical attack

Good resistance-to chemical attack is a desirable property for thread used in garments which may undergo washing, bleaching or dry-cleaning

Good abrasion resistance

Good abrasion resistance ensures a good sewing performance and makes the thread more durable.

The following figures show the results of thread-to-thread abrasion tests and give an indication of their respective resistance to abrasion:

If Linen, Rayon Continuous Filament (CF) has resistance of 1, then:

Cotton = 3

Spun Silk = 4

Spun Polyester = 12

CF Polyester = 30

Spun Nylon = 40

CF Nylon = 150

Good colour fastness

Good colour fastness will retain the thread’s original colour without running or fading when subjected to wash and light exposure. The thread colour should be resistant to different agents to which it is exposed during manufacture and use.

Colour fastness can be measured against:

Chlorinated water

Perspiration

Cold water staining

Dry cleaning

Pressing - wet and dry

Bleaching

Minimal metamerism

Minimal metamerism can be achieved by assessing colour with colour matching cabinets. Metamerism is an inherent property of a thread when the same thread colour appears to be different under different lighting conditions. Standard illuminants are often used to counter the effects of metamerism.

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Classification of Sewing thread?

Thread classification:

Thread can be classified in different ways. Some common classifications are those based on:

1. Substrate

2. Construction

3. Finish

1. Classification based on substrate

Natural

The usage of thread made from natural substrates is now minimal in industry applications. However, the most commonly used natural thread is cotton thread.

Synthetic

Due to the limitations of natural fibres, thread users have turned to threads made from synthetic fibres as they have desirable properties of exceptionally high tenacity, high resistance to abrasion and good resistance to chemicals. They are also not significantly affected by moisture, rot, mildew, insects or bacteria.

2. Classification based on construction thread structure

Spun thread

Spun thread is made using natural or synthetic fibres. Spun polyester is one of the most widely used threads. It is stronger than cotton threads of a comparable size, and is available in a wide variety of sizes and colours.

Corespun thread

Corespun thread is a combination of staple fibres and filaments. The most commonly used corespun thread has multiple-ply construction, with each ply consisting of a polyester filament core with cotton or polyester fibres wrapped around the core.

This thread structure influences the strength of filament polyester and the sewability of cotton or polyester fibre wrap. Corespun thread is generally used for the high-speed sewing of many garment types, especially those requiring high seam strength.

Filament threads

Filament threads are stronger than spun threads of the same fibre and size. Three types of filament threads are commonly used:

Monofilament thread is made from a single continuous fibre with a specified thickness. Though monofilament is strong, uniform and inexpensive to make, it lacks flexibility and is stiff and scratchy in feel. As a result, usage is normally restricted to hems, draperies, and upholstered furniture.

Smooth multifilament thread is usually made from nylon or polyester and is used where high strength is a primary requirement. It consists of two or more continuous filaments twisted together. It is commonly used to sew shoes, leather garments, and industrial products

Textured filament thread is usually made from polyester and is used primarily as the looper thread for cover stitches. Texturing filaments gives the yarn more cover and high extensibility, but makes the thread more subject to snagging.

Basics of thread construction

All conventional sewing threads begin their production cycle as simple yarns. These basic yarns are produced by twisting together relatively short fibres or fine continuous filaments.

Some terms used in the context of thread construction are:

Twist - The ‘twist’ of a thread refers to the number of turns per unit length required to hold the fibres / plies together to give the yarn / thread substance the required strength and flexibility. A thread with an excessive twist is also likely to give trouble while sewing due to ‘twist liveliness’, which can cause snarling, loops, knots and possible spillage that prohibit stitch formation.

Twist direction - Direction of twist is identified as ‘S’ for left twist and ‘Z’ for right twist. Most single needle lock stitch and other machines are designed for ‘Z’ twist threads. ‘S’ twist thread untwists during stitch formation. Direction of twist does not affect the strength of the thread, but it can seriously impair its performance when it is used on a machine for which it is not suited.

Ply and cord - Yarns with many components are twisted together to form ply thread. Most commonly used are 2, 3 or 4 ply threads. Threads are twisted together to give corded thread. Most commonly used are 4, 6 or 9 cord threads.

Size - The overall thickness of the final thread is referred to as ‘Grist’, ‘Ticket Number’, ‘Tex’ or ‘Count’. Thread should be as fine as possible depending on the required strength of seam. Generally, thicker threads have greater strength, given the same fibre content and yarn structure. Finer threads tend to blend into the fabric surface and are less subject to abrasion than seams with heavier threads. Finer threads perform better with finer needles and produce less fabric distortion than heavier needles.

3. Classification based on thread finish

Finishes are given to a thread for two purposes

To improve sewability

Some finishes involve increasing strength, abrasion resistance and lubrication of the thread.

To achieve a specific functional requirement

Some finishes include bonding, non wick, anti-fungal, fire retardant, water repellent and anti-static finishes.

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How to Measure Button Ligne in Garments Industry?

What is Button Ligne?

A button's ligne, refers to a button's size. The word ligne, is a French word that became the standard reference used by German button manufacturers in the early eighteenth century. Ligne is expressed as “L” which is the internationally recognized standard. Consensus at the time was that a "ligne" measured the inside diameter of a "round wick folded flat." One inch is equal to 40 English ligne, 11 French ligne, and 25.5 mm.

Measuring a button - When measuring buttons, we generally are referring to the diameter of the button.   A one inch diameter is called a 40-ligne, which can also be written as 40 Line or simply 40L.

Button Size Measurement Method in Garments Sector:

To measure the button size, we have to use ligne.

We Know,

1 inch = 25.4 mm = 40L

So, 1L = 0.635 mm

Button Ligne (L) = Button Diameter (mm)/0.635

Example-01:

If the button diameter is 14.20 mm then what will be the size of button?

Solution:

Here,

Button diameter = 14.20 mm,

So,

ButtonLigne(L) = Button Diameter (mm)/0.635

= 14.20 / 0.635

= 22 L

Different Ligne Button Used In Different Garments :

Typically shirt buttons range from 13 ligne on the Collar (if button down), 15 on the Sleeve, and 16 thru 20 ligne are generally used on the placket.  Pant buttons generally have a 22 or 24 ligne on the front closure, and either a 24, 27 or 28 ligne .On the back pockets.  Men’s Tailored Suits generally have a 24-ligne button on the sleeve and pant closure, and a 32 ligne on the Jacket closure, some double breasted suits use a 34 or 36 Ligne.

Button Quantities

Buttons are for the most part priced and sold by the gross or GG. One gross equals 144 individual buttons & also 1 GG equals 1728 individual buttons.  Although some high fashion buttons are priced by the piece or by the dozen, the standard unit we use at is gross.

Button Holes

This is in reference to the number of holes in the button. Buttons can be made with 2 holes, 3- holes, 4-holes and even 5-holes.  Menswear items typically are 4-hole, and Women’s clothing typically has 2-holes.  The button holes are frequently recessed from the edge, forming a “center well”.

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The American Care Labeling System?

According to the Federal Trade Commission’s Care Label rule, care labels may be composed of either words or symbols. Irrespective of whether the content is words, symbols, or both, care instructions appear in the following order:

1. Machine wash / Hand wash / Dry-clean

2. Washing temperature (hot / warm / cold)

3. Washing machine programme (delicate / permanent press / normal cycle)

4. Bleaching instruction (do not bleach / non-chlorine bleach / chlorine bleach)

5. Drying method (tumble dry / line dry / flat dry / drip dry)

6. Ironing (do not iron / cool iron / warm iron / hot iron)

7. Warnings

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The European Care Labeling System?

Individual committees of the European Union are reviewing existing care label standards by collaborating with other international bodies so that they can create a unified system under the ISO scheme.

The symbols used in Europe are trademarked by GENETEX and a trademark fee needs to be paid to GENETEX, the trademark holder, if the garments are to be sold in a GENETEX country.

A correct care label for European countries is required to consist of at least four and sometimes five symbols in the following sequence: 1) Washing, 2) Bleaching, 3) Ironing, 4) Dry-cleaning & 5) Drying.

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What is Accessories ? What are the Differences between Trims and Accessories?

Introduction :

A Fashion accessories is an item used to contribute, in a secondary manner, to the wearer's outfit, often used to complete an outfit and chosen to specifically complement the wearer's look. The term came into use in the 19th century.

Fashion accessories are decorative items that supplement one's garment, such as jewelry, gloves, handbags, hats, belts, scarves, watches, sunglasses, pins, stockings, bow ties, leg warmers, leggings, neckties, suspenders, and tights.

Fashion accessories add color, style and class to an outfit, and create a certain look, but they may also have practical functions. Handbags are for carrying small necessary items, hats protect the face from weather elements, Laptops provide mobile connectivity and are used to increase work power and gloves keep the hands warm.

Differences between Trims and Accessories:

Actually the Fabrication part of the garments is called Trims , like fusing thread care label etc are the trims.

And the non fabricational part of the garments are called Accessory.  and the zipper buttons studs poopers eyelet etc are the accessories.

Trims and accessories are those materials that are used in a garment other than main fabric (shell fabric). Even lining materials (fabrics) fall under trims and accessories.

Trims: Materials used to ornament or enhance garments. 

Accessories: Item that enhances the aesthetic appeal or function of a garment including belt, scarves or other objects. 

Garments trims and accessories means all the items used in the garment except the main raw material (Fabric). There are hundreds of items used to manufacture the garments, which are used as trims and accessories.

A list of few important trims and accessories mentioned here below :

1. Sewing thread

 2. Button, Snap button, Ring button, Shank button, Eyelet button, Rivet button

3. Eyelet washer, it is used inside the eyelet

4. Interlining, it is used in collar/ cuffs/ front placket and waist band etc.

5. Padding, it is used in padding jacket

6. Collar bone / stay, it is used inside the collar point

7. Zipper, to fasten garments.

8. Lace, it is used at the top or bottom of any garments

9. Shoulder tape, it is used inside at shoulder seam RMG

10. Woven tape/ twill tape, it is used at side seam of pant

11. Hook, it is used inside of waist band

12. Stopper, end of drawstring/zipper

13. Shoulder pad, inside of shoulder of ladies shirt

14. Drawstring, inside of waist band in trouser and bottom of jacket

15. String, inside of waist band of trouser

16. Velcro tap craves, inside of flaps and pocket for opening and closing

17. Lining, inside of  RMG / fabric

18. Rip, used in neck/ bottom/sleeve/ collar

20. Brass pin, folding pinup

21. Al- pin, folding pinup

22. Boll pin, folding pin

23. Pearl pin, folding pinup

24. Tag pin, used for handing the hangtag and price tag

25. Plastic clip is used after following

26. Label, Elastic, Badge, Size finder

27. Tie clip, it is used at tie knot

 28. Metal clip, it is used in P. P band for carton binding

29. Metal seal, it is used in P. P band for carton banding

30. Iron seal, it is used in P. P band for carton binding

31. Gum tape, for closing the carton

32. Scotch tape, for closing the poly bag or blister poly bag

33. Single butterfly, used for collar spread quality at neck button

34. Double butterfly, used for collar spread

quality at neck button

35. Tie butterfly quality at collar spread

quality at neck button

36. Tissue Paper, for inside of folding use

37. Tarpaulin paper, for inside of folding use

38. Collar stand/ collar insert. It is used for proper neck, saves it stay around the neck circumference

39. P.P band, for binding the carton

40. Back board, inside of shirt folding

41. Neck board, inside of collar and board

42. Poly bag

43. Master poly bag/ Blister poly bag, it contains GMTS.

44. Gift box, used for high cost shirt

45. Inner carton, for safety

46. Divider, for dividing the garment in carton

47. Hanger, to hang garments

48. Arrow sticker, identify the alter or defect

49. Price sticker shows price of the garment.

50. Barcode sticker, shows measure of garment

51. UPC label, outside of master carton or export carton etc.

Reference : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fashion_accessory 

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