The smallest
failure in thread performance results in losses on investments in material,
equipment, garment engineering, and labor. Hence, it is important to know your
thread thoroughly. Enhancing thread knowledge, analyzing thread parameters, the
right selection procedure and use of thread plays a major role in achieving
good sewing performance and the desired seam quality.
This Bulletin
Post serves an introduction to the types of threads, the properties, thread
construction, and factors affecting thread performance.
What is sewing
thread?
Sewing threads
are special kinds of yarns that are engineered and designed to pass through a
sewing machine rapidly. They form efficient stitches without breaking or
becoming distorted during the useful life of the product. The basic function of
a thread is to deliver aesthetics and performance in stitches and seams.
What are the
factors that affect functions of a sewing thread?
Factors
affecting aesthetics
Colour, lustre
and fineness / thickness should be considered while selecting a thread for
decorative purposes such as top stitching or embroidery.
Other
considerations include:
1. Hue and
shade matching
2. Colour
fastness
3. Stitch
selection
4. Uniformity
of stitch formation
Factors
affecting performance
Thread used in
garments must be durable enough to withstand the abrasion and needle heat that
occur while sewing, garment finishing, stretching and recovery during wear.
Thread
performance in garments can be evaluated from its
1. Seam
strength
2. Abrasion
resistance
3. Elasticity
4. Chemical
resistance
5. Flammability
6. Colour
fastness
Thread
classification:
Thread can be
classified in different ways. Some common classifications are those based on:
1. Substrate
2. Construction
3. Finish
What is “Sew
ability”?
'Sew ability'
of thread is a term used to describe a sewing thread’s performance. A thread
with good sew ability is uniform in diameter with a good surface finish.
Longitudinal uniformity of thread contributes to uniform strength and reduced
friction, as it passes through the stitch forming mechanisms. It also minimizes
thread breakages and the associated costs incurred from rethreading machines,
repairing stitches and producing inferior quality products.
Sew ability
parameters:
The parameters
that define the superior sew ability of thread are:
1. No breakages
in high-speed sewing
2. Consistent
stitch formation
3. No skipped
stitches
4. Evenness, to
prevent changes in tension during sewing
5. A high level
of abrasion resistance
6. Sufficient
surface smoothness, to pass easily through the machine guides