The 1960s, several brands of computers were introduced onto
the market, and textile engineers started to think about CAD. These machines,
called mainframes, were gigantic devices. Punch cards were prepared and then
processed in the computer using the technology of the time. The result of the
work that was ordered could only be obtained the next day, or sometimes the
following week. These methods, such as transforming the work of the designer
into the punches on the cards and arranging their positions in jacquard weaves
and knits, required long and arduous efforts during routine textile processes.
This process was first put into practice at MIT in the years 1963-4. In the
beginning, the data was loaded onto central computers simultaneously.
After some time, graphic terminals were developed, which
proved to be a great help. The real development, on the other hand, which paved
the way for creative designing, started with the introduction of interactive
computers. Mini-computers started to be used by small groups of people, and our
modern-day PCs formed strong networks with one another. It became possible to
see on the screen what the designer had in mind at a period no later than the
time he would have spent if he had drawn the whole design himself. Now,
designers had no excuse not to make use of the creative changes provided by
this favorable environment.
By the end of 1993, many CAD/CAM vendors had automatic
marker-making capability.
However, much work remains to be done, due to the heuristic
nature of the process. The technique is only employed for costing purposes,
with the interactive method being the choice for production markers. A program
that enables an automatic marker-making system to compact patterns (by placing
the pattern pieces as closely together as possible) in only 30-45 seconds has
been developed. This program compact markers automatically in less time, almost
as efficiently as an operator does. However, it needs some corrections by the
operator so as to improve cutting quality and fabric usage productivity.
Today, the three-dimensional body scanner is a promising new
technology that will contribute revolutionary changes to the conception,
design, manufacture and distribution of apparel. Currently, the quantification
of fit is complex and ambiguous, and objective methods, such as comparison of
linear measurements, are inadequate. Body scanning provides multi-dimensional
data that can provide new insights into sizing and grading systems.
How functional the related software is affects the continuation
of development. Tendencies are mostly towards automated garment development
from body scan data. For body scanning to support automated garment
development, automatic integration of measurement data into commercially
available CAD/CAM software must be achieved first. To date, body scan data does
not automatically integrate with any commercially available CAD/CAM system or
measurement extraction algorithmic process. The lack of standard formats for
transmitting body scan data further impedes the process, in that a recipient of
body scan data cannot currently be assured that the critical measurements
needed for the product design have been appropriately extracted. The principle
of this research, to link critical garment sizing measurements with critical anthropocentric
measurements extracted from body scans, is planned as a three-year
investigation. In years 2 and 3 we will move toward the development and
activation of the model, culminating in the creation of the integration linkage
necessary for Automated Garment Development.
Computerization of marker making:
• First developed in the early 1970s.
• Initially, these systems could only be used
for pattern grading and computer assisted marker making.
• By 1993, many of the CAD/CAM vendors had
automatic marker making capability.
• The first CAD/CAM systems were so expensive,
that only the largest companies could justify purchasing them.
• Now, these systems offer more advantages and
are available at less than one-tenth of the price.
• The more reasonable price allows small
companies to also purchase the CAD/CAM systems.