Classification of Sewing thread?

Thread classification:

Thread can be classified in different ways. Some common classifications are those based on:

1. Substrate
2. Construction
3. Finish

1. Classification based on substrate
Natural
The usage of thread made from natural substrates is now minimal in industry applications. However, the most commonly used natural thread is cotton thread.

Synthetic

Due to the limitations of natural fibres, thread users have turned to threads made from synthetic fibres as they have desirable properties of exceptionally high tenacity, high resistance to abrasion and good resistance to chemicals. They are also not significantly affected by moisture, rot, mildew, insects or bacteria.

2. Classification based on construction thread structure

Spun thread
Spun thread is made using natural or synthetic fibres. Spun polyester is one of the most widely used threads. It is stronger than cotton threads of a comparable size, and is available in a wide variety of sizes and colours.


Corespun thread
Corespun thread is a combination of staple fibres and filaments. The most commonly used corespun thread has multiple-ply construction, with each ply consisting of a polyester filament core with cotton or polyester fibres wrapped around the core.

This thread structure influences the strength of filament polyester and the sewability of cotton or polyester fibre wrap. Corespun thread is generally used for the high-speed sewing of many garment types, especially those requiring high seam strength.

Filament threads
Filament threads are stronger than spun threads of the same fibre and size. Three types of filament threads are commonly used:

Monofilament thread is made from a single continuous fibre with a specified thickness. Though monofilament is strong, uniform and inexpensive to make, it lacks flexibility and is stiff and scratchy in feel. As a result, usage is normally restricted to hems, draperies, and upholstered furniture.



Smooth multifilament thread is usually made from nylon or polyester and is used where high strength is a primary requirement. It consists of two or more continuous filaments twisted together. It is commonly used to sew shoes, leather garments, and industrial products


Textured filament thread is usually made from polyester and is used primarily as the looper thread for cover stitches. Texturing filaments gives the yarn more cover and high extensibility, but makes the thread more subject to snagging.

Basics of thread construction
All conventional sewing threads begin their production cycle as simple yarns. These basic yarns are produced by twisting together relatively short fibres or fine continuous filaments.

Some terms used in the context of thread construction are:

Twist - The ‘twist’ of a thread refers to the number of turns per unit length required to hold the fibres / plies together to give the yarn / thread substance the required strength and flexibility. A thread with an excessive twist is also likely to give trouble while sewing due to ‘twist liveliness’, which can cause snarling, loops, knots and possible spillage that prohibit stitch formation.

Twist direction - Direction of twist is identified as ‘S’ for left twist and ‘Z’ for right twist. Most single needle lock stitch and other machines are designed for ‘Z’ twist threads. ‘S’ twist thread untwists during stitch formation. Direction of twist does not affect the strength of the thread, but it can seriously impair its performance when it is used on a machine for which it is not suited.
Ply and cord - Yarns with many components are twisted together to form ply thread. Most commonly used are 2, 3 or 4 ply threads. Threads are twisted together to give corded thread. Most commonly used are 4, 6 or 9 cord threads.
Size - The overall thickness of the final thread is referred to as ‘Grist’, ‘Ticket Number’, ‘Tex’ or ‘Count’. Thread should be as fine as possible depending on the required strength of seam. Generally, thicker threads have greater strength, given the same fibre content and yarn structure. Finer threads tend to blend into the fabric surface and are less subject to abrasion than seams with heavier threads. Finer threads perform better with finer needles and produce less fabric distortion than heavier needles.

3. Classification based on thread finish

Finishes are given to a thread for two purposes

To improve sewability
Some finishes involve increasing strength, abrasion resistance and lubrication of the thread.

To achieve a specific functional requirement
Some finishes include bonding, non wick, anti-fungal, fire retardant, water repellent and anti-static finishes.

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