Showing posts with label yarn. Show all posts
Showing posts with label yarn. Show all posts

FABRIC PREPARATION PROCESSES : YARN PREPARATION EQUIPMENT

FABRIC PREPARATION PROCESSES : YARN PREPARATION EQUIPMENT
Various types of equipment can be used for preparing fabric. The ultimate goal of any preparation process is to produce fabric that is clean and rid of all impurities that interfere with dyeing and finishing. The preparation steps can be carried out as either batch or continuous processes. The fabric may be transported as a rope or as an open sheet through the equipment. The choice is often predicated on the dyehouse itself. The distinguishing feature of batch equipment is that all of the fabric is simultaneously submerged in the liquor. The fabric is agitated by moving it through the liquor. In continuous processes, the fabric passes non-stop through compartments and/or stages so that the fabric is incrementally subjected to the action of the chemicals. The equipment used for dyeing fabrics is also suitable for preparing fabric. In this section, the equipment used to perform fabric preparation will be described.

I. YARN PREPARATION EQUIPMENT

Slashing is the process where Size is applied to warp yarns for weaving. The purpose of size is to protect the yarn from the abrasive action of the loom. The process is carried out on a Slasher and the application procedure is called Sizing or Slashing. While technically this process is not considered as a step in preparing fabric, the materials used in this operation, to a large measure, account for the bulk
of what must be removed. Because the desizing step is highly dependant on what size was used, it is deemed instructive to discuss the slashing process as well as discuss the nature of the sizing materials.

Figure 1 shows a schematic diagram of a slasher. In slashing, section beams are combined to create a loom beam and at the same time apply the appropriate size to the warp yarns. The section marked (1) is the let-off station where one or more section beams are combined and fed through the rest of the range. The warp yarns are let-off as a flat sheet and then pass through a size applicator (2) consisting of a trough containing the size formulation and squeeze rolls. The yarns pass over heated cans (3) to dry. Located at the exit end of the slasher is an arrangement of bust bars which separate each warp end from its neighbor. The individual warp ends passthrough a reed which guides the yarn onto the take-up beam. Associated with the slasher is a cooking station, where the sizing material (starch or polyvinyl alcohol) is dissolved and stored. The solution is metered to the applicator as needed to
replenish what has been taken up by the warp sheet. The chemical nature of the size will be discussed in a later section along with the conditions needed to effectively remove the size.

What are the objects of blending in spinning?

What are the objects of blending in spinning?
(a) Blending influences the reduction of the cost of the final product through blend composition, availability of fibres quality & inherent fibre property variations.

(b)  It helps to improve processing performance of the following process
 
(i) Carding : Blending influences the processing performance of carding through  control  of  nep  level  variation,  waste  level  variation,  fly,  roving  twist variation, m/c adjustment, static electricity formation.
(ii) Spgn : Blending influences the processing performance of spgn through control of yarn twist variation, end breakage, m/c adjustment etc.

(iii) Warping  &  weaving  : Blending  influences  the  processing performance  of  warping  &  weaving  through  control  of  end  break  m/c adjustment etc.

(iv) Dyeing & finishing : Blending influences the behavior of dyeing &  finishing through control of shrinkage variation, dyeing defects etc.

(c) Blending influences –

(i) Physical properties : It influences to increases tensile & tear strength, Elasticity, abrasion resistance, stretch etc.

(ii) Aesthetic  properties  : It  influences  to  increase  luster.  Appearance, cover, color etc.

(iii) Subjective  properties  :It  increases  comfort  &  the  properties  like handlings, touch, softness etc.

(d) It helps to meet function & end used requirements.

(e) It helps to achieve effect by carrying color, fibre characteristics & so on.

What is Mercerized Cotton?

 What is Mercerized Cotton?

Mercerized cotton is a special kind of cotton yarn that is more lustrous than conventional cotton. It is also stronger, takes dye a little more readily, makes the yarn more resistant to mildew and reduces lint. It also may not shrink or lose its shape as much as "regular" cotton.

Mercerisation is a treatment for cellulose material, typically cotton threads, that strengthens them and gives them a lustrous appearance. The process is less frequently used for linen and hemp threads.

Mercerization, the process by which mercerized yarn is made, is named for the British chemist John Mercer, who developed the process and received a patent for his work in 1851.

Mercer found that adding caustic soda (lye) or sulfuric acid to cotton made the fiber swell and straighten. No one was too impressed by that, but in 1890 Horace Lowe developed a process by which caustic soda was added to the yarn under high tension, which added the luster that mercerized cotton is famous for today.

Thread :
The modern production method for mercerized cotton, also known as "pearl" or "pearle" cotton, gives cotton thread (or cotton-covered thread with a polyester core) a sodium hydroxide bath that is then neutralized with an acid bath. This treatment increases luster, strength, affinity to dye, and resistance to mildew. On the other hand, it also increases its affinity to lint.

Cotton with long staple fiber lengths responds best to mercerisation. Mercerized thread is commonly used to produce fine crochet.

Spool of a two-ply mercerized cotton thread with a polyester core. Individual staples can be seen in close up view.

Fabric GSM wise required yarn count?

Fabric GSM wise required yarn count?
Yarn Count:
The yarn count is numerical expressions which define its coarseness or fineness

Fabric GSM:
‘GSM’ means ‘Gram per square meter’ that is the weight of fabric in gram per one square meter.

There are given various fabrics GSM and their required yarn count: 

For Single Jersey Fabric
Yarn Count
GSM (With Out Lycra)
GSM (With Lycra)
40/S
100-120
140-150
34/S
130-140
170-180
30/S
140-150
180-200
28/S
150-160
200-210
26/S
160-170
220-230
24/S
170-180
230-240
22/S
190-200
250-260
20/S
200-220
270-280

For 1*1 Rib & 2*2 Rib
Yarn Count
GSM 1*1 Rib
GSM 2*2 Rib
40/S
130-140
150-160
34/S
160-180
170-180
30/S
190-200
190-210
28/S
200-220
220-230
26/S
210-230
230-250
24/S
240-250
250-270
22/S
260-270
270-280
20/S
280-300
280-310

For Pique & Interlock Fabric
Yarn Count
Pique
Interlock
40/S
130-140
170-200
34/S
150-160
200-230
30/S
170-180
240-260
28/S
180-200
260-280
26/S
200-220
280-300
24/S
220-240
320-340
22/S
250-260
350-360
20/S
260-270
370-380

For Fleece & Terry Fabric
For fleece fabric we need polyester binder for the middle loop
GSM
Fleece Fabric Count
Terry Fabric Count
200
36/S , 12/S, 75D
30/S
220
36/S , 14/S, 75D
26/S
240
34/S, 16/S, 75D
24/S
260
32/S, 18/S, 75D
22/S
280
30/S, 20/S, 75D
20/S
300
30/S, 20/S, 75D

320
28/S, 20/S, 75D

340
28/S, 22/S, 75D

Relation between yarn count and fabric GSM?

Relation between yarn count and fabric GSM?
Yarn Count:
The yarn count is numerical expressions which define its coarseness or fineness. And also indicate the relationship between length and weight (the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass) of that yarn.

Fabric GSM:
‘GSM’ means ‘Gram per square meter’ that is the weight of fabric in gram per one square meter. The GSM of fabric is one kind of specification of fabric which is very important for a textile engineer for understanding and production of fabric. It is essential to know the weight of the fabric before manufacturing and after getting the finished fabric.

Different Fabric GSM and Their Required Yarn Count:

For Single Jersey Fabric
Yarn Count
GSM (With Out Lycra)
GSM (With Lycra)
40/S
100-120
140-150
34/S
130-140
170-180
30/S
140-150
180-200
28/S
150-160
200-210
26/S
160-170
220-230
24/S
170-180
230-240
22/S
190-200
250-260
20/S
200-220
270-280

For 1*1 Rib & 2*2 Rib
Yarn Count
GSM 1*1 Rib
GSM 2*2 Rib
40/S
130-140
150-160
34/S
160-180
170-180
30/S
190-200
190-210
28/S
200-220
220-230
26/S
210-230
230-250
24/S
240-250
250-270
22/S
260-270
270-280
20/S
280-300
280-310

For Pique & Interlock Fabric
Yarn Count
Pique
Interlock
40/S
130-140
170-200
34/S
150-160
200-230
30/S
170-180
240-260
28/S
180-200
260-280
26/S
200-220
280-300
24/S
220-240
320-340
22/S
250-260
350-360
20/S
260-270
370-380

For Fleece & Terry Fabric
For fleece fabric we need polyester binder for the middle loop
GSM
Fleece Fabric Count
Terry Fabric Count
200
36/S , 12/S, 75D
30/S
220
36/S , 14/S, 75D
26/S
240
34/S, 16/S, 75D
24/S
260
32/S, 18/S, 75D
22/S
280
30/S, 20/S, 75D
20/S
300
30/S, 20/S, 75D

320
28/S, 20/S, 75D

340
28/S, 22/S, 75D