Different types of Label which are used in garment industry?

Garments Labels:

Garments labels are sewn or printed in garments and contain, country of origin, manufacturer identification number, care instruction, and voluntary information identifying size and brand. Garments labels should be affixed and legible for the useful life of the apparel item. Garment labels are selected based on location of label (interior or exterior application); type and design of the garments; contact with the wearer’s skin; intricacy or simplicity of the label content (logo, graphic art, word, and so on); garment fabric, brand, quality, and price point; and information to be disclosed.

Label types:

Garments labels are created by manufacturers from both mature and synthetic fibers and can be woven or printed. Woven labels are more durable and maintain their appearance and legibility longer than printed labels after repeated laundering or dry-cleaning. Materials used for sew- in labels include acetate, cotton, bamboo, polyester, leather, suede, PVC, silicon, or rubber.

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How to Calculate Garments Cost of Manufacturing (CM) | Knit Garments CM Calculation Formula

CM is the abbreviation for Cost of Manufacturing. In apparel industry CM means Manufacturing Cost of 12 pcs garments. To calculate Manufacturing Cost of 12 pcs knit garments of a specific order we must know-

1. Monthly expenditure of the factory,

2. Total running machine,

3. Machine qty to execute the layout of the specific order,

4. Daily (8 hour/day) productivity of the said order (excluding alter and reject) and

5. Dollar conversion rate (if monthly expenditure amount is other than US Dollar)

Suppose,

-Monthly Factory Expenditure is BD Taka 40,00,000

-Working days of the month=26 days

-Daily Factory Expenditure= BD Taka 153,846.2 (Monthly Factory Expenditure/working days in a month)

-Total running machine qty=125 Machine

-Daily Expenditure of 1 Machine = BD Taka 1230.769 (Daily Factory Expenditure/Total running machine)

-Machine qty for the layout (for the said order)=30

-Daily cost for the layout= BD Taka 36923.08 (Daily Expenditure of 1 Machine x Machine qty for the layout)

-Hourly production of the layout=120pcs

-Normal daily working hour=8hours

-Daily Production of the layout=960 pcs (Hourly production of the layout x Normal daily working hour)

-Manufacturing cost of 1pc=BD Taka 38.46154(Daily cost for the layout / Daily Production of the layout)

-So, CM (Manufacturing Cost of 12 pcs garments)= BD Taka 461.5385 (Manufacturing cost of 1pc x 12)

-Dollar conversion rate: BD Taka 78=US$1

-So, CM (Manufacturing Cost of 12 pcs garments) in US$= US$ 6.24

-20% profit could be added with CM= US$1.24

-Final CM = US$7.484 (US$6.24+ US$1.24)

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What Is BOTTLENECK In Garments? How To Find Out & Reducing BOTTLENECK?

Bottleneck

The upper narrow portion of a bottle is called neck (opening side) that is an obstruction to go to the way from large portion of bottle through narrow portion of neck. It is a metaphorical scene of obstruction of production sector. It is an extreme point in a production sector where production is hampered from normal flow of production. In a production sector bottleneck means lost production and lost profit e.g. the lowest capacity of production.

Bottleneck in production line

The lowest output point in production line is called bottleneck. The bottleneck area is where supply gathered and production goes under capacity. In the chain working systems the supply of an operator is the feeding of next operator. So, the minimum supply from bottleneck point will be the feeding of next operator as well as the production will not be more than the output of bottleneck point.

How the bottleneck may arise in the garments production sewing line/sector

1. Bottleneck before input in line/group

• Unavailable issue from MCD/ store
• Delay issue from source
• Inconsistency /mistake of sequence of issue
• Inconsistency /mistake of bundling
• Wrong issue supply
• Pattern problem
• Material problem
• Unavailable machine. Etc.

2. Bottleneck in line/group

• Operators selection wrong
• Task selection wrong
• Task allocation wrong
• Wrong works flow/sequence of works
• Wrong measurement of task
• Works negligence by operator
• Operators absenteeism
• Machine disturbs / problem
• Lack of supply
• Non-serial supply from operators
• Color shading
• Quality problem
• Sickness of related operator

How To Find Out Bottleneck?

Bottleneck is the extreme point of line where the output / capacity of production is minimum however it is difficult to find out very quickly where a lot of operators are working together. In this situation we may consider the below factors to find out the bottleneck easily-

*By performing cycle check

It is very easy and accurate measuring system as well as the best of scientific way to find out the bottleneck at a glance from graph that is made from the data of cycle check. The extreme point of observation time that takes an operator to perform his/her task is the bottleneck point which is placed above the HPT line even though BPT line.

*By checking counter machine

It is easy to find out the bottleneck point by checking counting machine where the production has counted poor /lowest. This system may be done time to time like hourly or within an expected time.

*By observing the gathering of supply

Those point or area is the bottleneck point or area where a pile of supply is observed. Some of operators have a pile of feed but next or side of operator may get relax and it will be treated as bottleneck point or area.

*By observing serial number of supplied issue

Generally all operators perform their task as per sequence /serial number of process and if it is found in anywhere that, someone or some of operators are working the lowest serial number of running issue which is not reasonable deference with other operator, then it will be defined bottleneck point. 

Reducing bottleneck

• Arranging pre-production meeting in time
• Production costing
• Layout making before input in line
• Submitting the layout sheet to maintenance department in time
• Checking the fabrics & accessories before issue in the line
• Checking the pattern before issue in line
• Select right operator for right task
• Allocation the task as per standard produced value equally
• Reducing excess task from overloaded operator / find capacity where else
• Reducing ineffective time / task by production study
• Setting up good method instead of bad method by method analyzing
• Maintain sequence of task accordingly
• Keeping the supply available in time
• Should not forward the reject products
• Supply should be forwarded after checking
• Should not be forwarded inconsistency process
• Should not be forwarded quality fault product

Writing By,

Nurul Amin Jibon

IE Executive (Mohammadi Group)

B.Sc In Textile Engineer

Primeasia University. Batch: 091

Phone No : 01687-201045

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What are Allowances & Different types of allowances which are used in garments industries?

Allowance:

The normal time for an operation does not contain any allowances for the worker. It is impossible to work throughout the day even though the most practicable, effective method has been developed. Even under the best working method situation, the job will still demand the expenditure of human effort and some allowance must therefore be made for recovery from fatigue and for relaxation.

Allowances must also be made to enable the worker to attend to his personal needs. The allowances are categorized as:

1. Relaxation Allowance: 

Relaxation allowance may be of two types:

Personal needs allowance- this is for attending personal needs like drinking water, smoking, going to wash room etc. A common personal allowance is about 5% of basic time.

Fatigue allowance- this allowance is given to compensate for energy expended during working.  Fatigue allowance is generally considered as 4% of basic time.

2. Process allowance:

 A process allowance is an allowance of time given to compensate for enforced idleness of an operator due to the character of the process or operation on which he or she is employed.  For example- an operator may not be able to work because he has to wait for a machine to complete its own part or he may be the member of an unbalanced line. These are all unavoidable delay for which the operator is not responsible. Process allowances are generally considered as 5% of the basic time.

3. Policy Allowance:

This is used to calculate payments only in order to enhance the performance of the worker.

4. Special Allowances:

Contingency allowance should not exceed 5% .Such type of allowance may fall into following three categories;

Periodic activity allowances- Allowance for activities carried out at definite intervals of time. e.g., cleaning machines, resetting machines etc.

Interference allowance- This is the allowance to compensate the unavoidable loss of production due to simultaneous stoppage of one or more machines being operated by single operator.

Contingency Allowance- This is a small allowance of time given to compensate such delay as tool breakage involving removal of tool from the holder or power failures for small duration

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Waste Reduction Techniques For An Garments Industries?

Waste Reduction Techniques :
Some of the waste reduction tools include zero defects, setup time reduction, and line balancing. The goal of zero defects is to ensure that products are fault free all the way, through continuous improvement of the manufacturing process (Karlsson and Ahlstrom 1996). Human beings almost invariably will make errors. When errors are made and are not caught then defective parts will appear at the end of the process. However, if the errors can be prevented before they happen then defective parts can be avoided. One of the tools that the zero defect principle uses is Poka Yoke. Poka-Yoke, which was developed by Shingo, is an autonomous defect control system that is put on a machine that inspects all parts to make sure that there are zero defects. The goal of Poka-Yoke is to observe the defective parts at the source, detect the cause of the defect, and to avoid moving the defective part to the next workstation (Feld, 2000).

Single Minute Exchange of Die (SMED) is another technique of waste reduction.During 1950’s Ohno devised this system; and was able to reduce the die changing time from 1 day to three minutes (Womack, Jones and Ross, 1990). The basic idea of SMED is to reduce the setup time on a machine. There are two types of setups: internal and external. Internal setup activities are those that can be carried out only when the machine is stopped while external setup activities are those that can be done during machining. The idea is to move as many activities as possible from internal to external (Feld, 2000). Once all activities are identified than the next step is to try to simplify these activities (e.g. standardize setup, use fewer bolts). By reducing the setup time many benefits can be realized. First, die-changing specialists are not needed. Second, inventory can be reduced by producing small batches and more variety of product mix can be run.

Line balancing is considered a great weapon against waste, especially the wasted time of workers. The idea is to make every workstation produce the right volume of work that is sent to upstream workstations without any stoppage (Mid-America Manufacturing Technology Center Press Release, 2000). This will guarantee that each workstation is working in a synchronized manner, neither faster nor slower than other workstations.

Work Standardization: 
A very important principle of waste reduction is the standardization of work. Standardized work basically ensures that each job is organized and carried out in the same manner; irrespective of the people working on it. In this way if the work is standardized the same quality output will be received even if the worker is changed in process. At Toyota, every worker follows the same processing steps all the time. This includes the time needed to finish a job, the order of steps to follow for each job, and the parts on hand. By doing this one ensures that line balancing is achieved, unwanted work in process inventory is minimized and non value added activities are reduced. A tool that is used to standardize work is called takt time.

Value Stream mapping: 
Value Stream Mapping (VSM) is a technique that was originally developed by Toyota and then popularized by the book, Learning to See (The Lean Enterprise Institute, 1998), by Rother and Shook. VSM is used to find waste in the value stream of a product. Once waste is identified, then it is easier to make plan to eliminate it. The purpose of VSM is process improvement at the system level. Value stream maps show the process in a normal flow format. However, in addition to the information normally found on a process flow diagram, value stream maps show the information flow necessary to plan and meet the customer’s normal demands. Other process information includes cycle times, inventories, changeover times, staffing and modes of transportation etc. VSMs can be made for the entire business process or part of it depending upon necessity. The key benefit to value stream mapping is that it focuses on the entire value stream to find system wastes and try to eliminate the pitfall (Wilson, 2009, p. 147-153). Generally, the value stream maps are of three types. Present State Value Stream Map (PSVSM) tells about the current situation, Future State Value Stream Map (FSVSM) can be obtained by removing wastes (which can be eliminated in the short time like three to six months) from PSVSM and Ideal State Value Stream Mapping (ISVSM) is obtained by removing all the wastes from the stream. The VSM is designed to be a tool for highlighting activities. In lean terminology they are called kaizen activities, for waste reduction. Once the wastes are highlighted, the purpose of a VSM is to communicate the opportunities so they may be prioritized and acted upon. Hence, the prioritization and action must follow the VSM, otherwise it is just a waste like other wastes.

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Why Need Industrial Engineering (IE) for Apparel Manufacturing Industries

INTRODUCTION

Due to the increasing labor wage in developed countries, the apparel manufacturing has been migrating from the high wage developed world to low wage developing countries (Bheda, Narag and Singla, 2003). Even though the labor cost is cheaper than in developed countries; due to the specific market nature of the garment industries for example: the short production life cycle, high volatility, low predictability, high level of impulse purchase, the quick market response; garment industries are facing the greatest challenges these days (Lucy Daly and Towers, 2004).

Garment industries in developing countries are more focused on sourcing of raw material and minimizing delivery cost than labor productivity because of the availability of cheap labor. Due to this, labor productivity is lower in developing countries than in the developed ones. For example, labour is very cheap in Bangladesh but the productivity is poor among other developing countries (Shahidul and Syed Shazali, 2011). Similarly, the cost of fabric is a major part of the garment so there seems to be great need for improvement in this sector. Even in developing countries the CAD and CAM system for fabric cutting has been implemented to save fabric. Now the worry is about labor productivity and making production flexible; because the fashion industry is highly volatile and if the orders are not fulfilled on time, the fear for losing business is real.

Even today, industries are getting the same or more volumes (orders), but the number of styles they have to handle has increased drastically. Earlier industries were getting bulk order so there is no need to worry; if the production line was set for the first time it would run for a month or at least a week or two. But nowadays due to small order quantities and complex designs, the garment industry has to produce multiple styles even within a day; this needs higher flexibility in volume and style change over (Shahram and Cristian, 2011).

In some cases it has been observed that, in developing countries the garment industries are run as family business lacking skilled personnel as well as capital to implement new technologies for improving productivity and flexibility. Because of this, industries have been running in a traditional way for years and are rigid to change. They are happy as long as they are sustaining their business. They don’t have much confidence and will towards innovation over old processes. Now the time has come to struggle with global market demand and niche market in garment industries if they want to run it further(Gao, Norton, Zhang and Kin-man To, 2009).

This volatility of styles can be addressed only by flexibility in manufacturing. The best way to cope with all these challenges is the implementation of lean manufacturing. This will serve our purpose of flexibility and save a lot of money by reducing production lead time, reducing the inventory, increasing productivity, training operators for multiple works, and by reducing rework.

What is Industrial Engineering ( IE )

IE is a system which is improved production & productivity make peaceful working environment through systematic & scientific management technique .

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Working procedure of Dyeing in Textile Industries?

1.1 Desizing: This process to remove the size material and increase the absorbency power of the fabric to make the fabric suitable for the next process is called Desizing.

Chemical Types:

1. Detergent – 200gm

2. Caustic soda – 400gm

3. Water – 400 L

4. Hydrogen Peroxide – 600gm

5. Temperature - 70°c

At first mixed the chemical then run the machine 10 minutes at 70°c. After this process to proper clean the machine with 800 L water.

1.2 Neutral: Neutral is done to control the pH of this process pH must be checked. Some chemical are use for the process. At first Acetic Acid (100gm) with water 400 L to run the machine 5 minutes at 45°c. Then after this process to proper clean the machine with 800 L water for the next process.

1.3 Dyeing: This process by which is a textile material is to be changed physically or chemically, so that it looks mono uniform colored is called Dyeing.

Alfatex + Anticrease = 45°c – 5min

Dye Chemical = 55°c – 5min + Salt after 20min

Fixing Agent

 Softening Agent

 Rinsing Wash

Dain

1.4 Objects of dyeing:

1. The textile goods are dyed uniformly with single color.

2. To increase the attractiveness of the textile goods.

3. To make the fabric suitable for various usage.

4. To make textile goods suitable for decorative purposes.

Some necessary chemicals are needed for this process. Such as

1. Alfatex – 500gm

2. Anticrease – 500gm

Anticrease removes crease mark. The Belly Machine run 5 minute with chemical and water at 80°c temperature then add dyestuff.

 Indosol Scarlet BL – 350GM

 Rose RR – 66.25gm

 Red BA – 153.5gm

 Salt – 15kg

Those chemical are mixed in a bath. Those chemical are taken in a Belly Mache with 800 L water to run the machine 5 minute at 80°c temperature then check garments to match the shade.

1.5 Fixing: This is a very important process because it helps to carry dye in garments. It increases durability dye in the garments. For this process fixing agent such as hydrocol sun (300gm) and water is needed to run machine 5 minute at 40°c. Then after this process to proper clean the machine with 800 L water for the next process.

1.6 Enzyme: This process is done when the garments carry excess dye than the buyer requirement. But when garments carry light that time enzyme process is not necessary. For enzyme process Jak powder (150gm) and pocket clear (100gm) are needed with water to run the machine 5 minute at 40°c temperature. After this process to proper clean the machine with 800 L water.

1.7 Softener: Softener is used to soft the garments. For this process IMA and Acetic Acid are needed with water to run the machine 5 minute at 40°c temperature then garments out. After Finishing those process garments are taken out for finish dry process. Time, Temperature, Liquor Ratio must be controlled.

1.8 Garments dyeing process with vat dyes: The following process is suitable specially for garment dyeing. Typical recipe: Wetting agent = 0.5 – 1.0 g/l Sequestering agent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/l Leveling agent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/l Retarding agent – 5 - 7 g/l (If necessary use in hot dyes) Dyes = 7% (owf) Caustic soda = 5 %(according to vender recommendation) Hydros (sodium hydrosulfite) = 5%( according to vender recommendation) Temperature = 70°c - 80°c Time = 30 – 50 min M: L = 1:10

Procedure:

1. First, settle dye bath with substrate at 40°c and wetting, sequestering agent, leveling, retarding agent (if necessary) and then run for 5 – 10 min.

2. Add dyes according to substrate weight and run the bath for 5 min.

3. Add 2/3 of caustic soda requirements and run for 5 min.

4. Raise the temperature to 70 – 80 at 2-3c/min and run for 5 min.

5. Add Sodium hydrosulfite (hydroz) to the bath with rest 1/3 amount of caustic requirements.

6. Run the bath for 30 min and maintain reduction by checking with vat reduction paper.

7. Overflow rinse until with cold water.

1.9 Oxidation: After dyeing cycle penetrated and distributed dye molecules are oxidized to convert insoluble form into the fiber. The oxidation process can be done in contact of air or other oxidizing agent. For example, the oxidation process can be carried out treating the dyed goods with 0.5 – 1.0 g/l hydrogen 35% at 30 – 35 for 10 min.

1.9.1 Soaping:

Detergent = 1.0 – 2.0 g/l

Soda ash = 1- 2 g/l

Glucose = 95 – 100c

Time = 15 – 30 min

M: L = 1: 10 – 1: 20

The rinse the goods with cold-hot-cold water successively.

1.9.2 Softening:

1. That the good with 1.0 – 2.0% softening agent at 10 min.

2. Drop

3. Finally dry the goods uses.

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What is Mercerized Cotton?

Mercerized cotton is a special kind of cotton yarn that is more lustrous than conventional cotton. It is also stronger, takes dye a little more readily, makes the yarn more resistant to mildew and reduces lint. It also may not shrink or lose its shape as much as "regular" cotton.

Mercerisation is a treatment for cellulose material, typically cotton threads, that strengthens them and gives them a lustrous appearance. The process is less frequently used for linen and hemp threads.

Mercerization, the process by which mercerized yarn is made, is named for the British chemist John Mercer, who developed the process and received a patent for his work in 1851.

Mercer found that adding caustic soda (lye) or sulfuric acid to cotton made the fiber swell and straighten. No one was too impressed by that, but in 1890 Horace Lowe developed a process by which caustic soda was added to the yarn under high tension, which added the luster that mercerized cotton is famous for today.

Thread :

The modern production method for mercerized cotton, also known as "pearl" or "pearle" cotton, gives cotton thread (or cotton-covered thread with a polyester core) a sodium hydroxide bath that is then neutralized with an acid bath. This treatment increases luster, strength, affinity to dye, and resistance to mildew. On the other hand, it also increases its affinity to lint.

Cotton with long staple fiber lengths responds best to mercerisation. Mercerized thread is commonly used to produce fine crochet.

Spool of a two-ply mercerized cotton thread with a polyester core. Individual staples can be seen in close up view.

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The basic requirements of good quality sewing thread?

Good tensile strength

Good tensile strength holds the stitched seam securely during wash and wear.

Smooth surface and absence of faults

Smooth surface and absence of faults ensures less friction between the needle and the material during high-speed sewing. The thread must be well lubricated to increase its sew ability and resistance to abrasion.

Uniform thickness / diameter

Uniform thickness / diameter results in an even sewing thread, which moves smoothly and quickly through the needle eye and the fabric. It also affects the thread’s tensile strength, resistance to abrasion and its twist construction. An uneven thread may twist into short knots and jam at the eye of the needle.

Good elasticity

Good elasticity enables thread to recover its original length immediately after the tension has been released. The elasticity of sewing thread affects the strength and the finished quality of a stitched seam.

Good colour fastness

Good color fastness provides immunity to the different agents the thread is exposed to during manufacture and washing. The thread must hence be uniformly dyed.

Low shrinkage

Low shrinkage of the thread being used on the fabric material with higher shrinkage reduces the chances of seam puckering.

Good resistance-to chemical attack

Good resistance-to chemical attack is a desirable property for thread used in garments which may undergo washing, bleaching or dry-cleaning

Good abrasion resistance

Good abrasion resistance ensures a good sewing performance and makes the thread more durable.

The following figures show the results of thread-to-thread abrasion tests and give an indication of their respective resistance to abrasion:

If Linen, Rayon Continuous Filament (CF) has resistance of 1, then:

Cotton = 3

Spun Silk = 4

Spun Polyester = 12

CF Polyester = 30

Spun Nylon = 40

CF Nylon = 150

Good colour fastness

Good colour fastness will retain the thread’s original colour without running or fading when subjected to wash and light exposure. The thread colour should be resistant to different agents to which it is exposed during manufacture and use.

Colour fastness can be measured against:

Chlorinated water

Perspiration

Cold water staining

Dry cleaning

Pressing - wet and dry

Bleaching

Minimal metamerism

Minimal metamerism can be achieved by assessing colour with colour matching cabinets. Metamerism is an inherent property of a thread when the same thread colour appears to be different under different lighting conditions. Standard illuminants are often used to counter the effects of metamerism.

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